Let’s See an End to Buyer Beware!
Throughout the world, counterfeiting comes in two main forms.
The first is the “gentle fraud”: a handbag in the marketplace that looks like Gucci, or a chocolate bar in a discount store that resembles a Cadbury’s but it is not. As someone who is dyslexic, I can be caught out by these tricks. But in truth, when we shop at very low-price outlets, most of us know we are taking a risk. If something seems too cheap, it probably is not what it claims to be.
Yet what about the millions of people who have no choice but to shop in those outlets? Consumers everywhere are naturally drawn to trusted brands. In cosmetics especially, where individual sensitivities matter, brand trust can mean the difference between a safe experience and an adverse skin reaction. For many people with sensitive skin, staying loyal to one brand is not about luxury—it’s about necessity.
The Low-End Counterfeiting Problem
Is it fair that “imitation” or “duped” products piggyback on the reputation of brands that have invested millions in safety, quality, and consumer trust?
Imagine I unknowingly buy a fake cosmetic from a cheap outlet, my skin reacts, and I assume that the brand changed its ingredients. That single experience can damage decades of brand reputation and result in lost marketing and sales, amplified as I share my story with friends and family.
This cycle of “negative muttering” has existed for centuries, dating back to innkeepers in the Middle Ages diluting ale. But today, the problem goes far beyond local gossip. What if these fake branded products were found at full retail price in reputable retailers?
When Fakes Infiltrate Legitimate Channels
This is not a theoretical risk—it’s happening now.
A September 2025 CNBC investigation revealed that Walmart’s online marketplace has been infiltrated by scams and counterfeit products, raising questions about how well even the largest retailers can protect consumers from sophisticated fakes (CNBC, 2025).
The real danger comes when counterfeits infiltrate reputable retailers and online marketplaces. These are not cheap knockoff handbags but carefully crafted fakes that slip past even the most sophisticated supply-chain controls. When that happens, brand reputations suffer, and what begins as quiet muttering about ‘ingredient changes’ quickly escalates into amplified social media noise. Reports have even highlighted cases where major retailers have listed products closely resembling high-end brands. In late 2024, for example, handbags sold online through a large retailer were documented as bearing a striking resemblance to the Hermès Birkin—priced at under $100—igniting debate over whether such ‘dupes’ cross the line from inspiration into unfair brand dilution.
But while fashion dupes may spark debate, in cosmetics the consequences can be far more serious. Counterfeit beauty products do not just dilute brand image—they can contain unregulated, unsafe ingredients that directly harm consumers. What looks like a bargain lipstick or moisturizer may in fact cause allergic reactions, skin damage, or worse. In these cases, counterfeits threaten not only trust in brands but also consumer health and safety. This is why regulatory oversight that incorporates physical traceability is so critical.
The Regulatory Challenge
Cosmetovigilance — the systematic monitoring of cosmetic products to track and assess adverse reactions — means that in Europe, bad outcomes are formally recorded and linked back to brands.
But herein lies the tragedy: even if a company can prove the offending product was a fake, to the consumer (and their social network), it is still the brand that failed them.
For example, a 2025 investigation by Which? found that more than 65% of beauty products purchased from online marketplaces—including items sold as MAC Cosmetics, Maybelline, Charlotte Tilbury, and The Ordinary—were likely counterfeit. Many of these products showed packaging inconsistencies or off-color formulations that raised safety concerns. In another case from December 2024, nearly 400 dangerous non-food items were flagged, more than 40% of which were cosmetics—many containing banned substances like BMHCA or showing microbiological contamination.
Take, for instance, a consumer who unknowingly purchases a counterfeit mascara online. After developing a rash, she shares her story on social media: ‘This brand must have changed its formula—I’ll never use it again.’ Within hours, that post may be amplified by friends, family, and followers, reaching thousands of people. No press release or corporate clarification can fully undo that reputational damage. In the eyes of consumers, it remains the brand that is responsible.
The Solution: A War on All Levels
The fight against counterfeiting requires coordinated action on every front. Brands must invest not only to protect their revenue but to protect their consumers.
The good news? The tools are now here.
The analytical power of AI
The connectivity of the Internet of Things
Together, these innovations make genuine supply chain transparency achievable.
And the benefits extend beyond brand and consumer. With full visibility, there is no hiding place for modern slavery. Supply chains lit by transparency eliminate the dark corners where exploitation thrives.
More Than Profits — Protecting People
The fight against counterfeiting is not only about protecting brand equity. It’s about protecting people - those who buy products in good faith, those who work in vulnerable conditions, and those who believe in the promise of trusted brands.
Transparency builds trust. Trust preserves reputation. And reputation, once protected, helps create a fairer, safer marketplace for everyone. Let’s make “buyer beware” a phrase of the past.
If you claim it can you prove it?™
Dr. Barbara E. Brockway – Science Advisor, Cosmetic Science & Innovation
Dr. Brockway brings more than 25 years of expertise in cosmetic science and personal care innovation to the GenuTrace Advisory Board. A Fellow Member, Past President, and current Trustee of the UK Society of Cosmetic Scientists, she has been a respected leader in advancing product safety, sustainability, and innovation. During her time at The Body Shop, she worked closely with Anita Roddick and helped launch the iconic Hemp Range. Today, she continues to champion sustainable sourcing, biotechnology, and future-proofing the beauty industry through research, publications, and international advisory roles.
