GenuTrace Spotlight: Rikke Bech on Building a Circular Textile Future

Rikke Bech, CEO & Founder, New Retex

“Textile recycling technologies can only deliver on their promise if the inputs and outputs are proven. GenuTrace provides that independent verification. Their ability to test and trace new fibers and yarns, even when marked at the source, ensures that recycled materials stand up to scrutiny and meet the demands of both regulators and the market.” 

My background: I originally trained as a designer and have worked in the Danish textile industry for many years. I have always loved clothing, and being part of the textile world has been an incredibly exciting journey.

When the pandemic hit, I suddenly found myself at home with three children and, for the first time in years, had a moment to reflect on what I wanted my future to look like. One of the things that struck me as problematic in the industry was how much time and effort goes into developing a collection. So many people across the world are involved, and it demands vast resources. Yet, as soon as a consumer buys the garment, it instantly begins to lose its value and all too often ends up as waste.

I couldn’t stop thinking about these valuable resources and how they could, and should, be reused in new ways. That’s where my interest in recycling began. What I quickly realized, when speaking with various recycling technologies, was that they all had one thing in common: they required a well-sorted input. And that’s when the idea struck me—I will build a sorting machine!

Has recycling been a central part of my life? 

At first, I would say no. But as the youngest in a large family, I grew up wearing my brothers’ hand-me-down clothes—which was very common at the time. More importantly, I grew up in the countryside, where living close to nature shaped my mindset from an early age.

From my upbringing, I carried with me a deep respect and interest in nature. It has always been a central part of my life. Growing up, we lived from and with nature as a life-giving element. This is also why the transition within the textile industry is, to me, absolutely crucial if we are to move the sector toward a more circular direction. Respect for nature is often part of the culture we inherit from home, but the tools to actually create a more circular future are what we now start to see in education.

Still, there remains a significant gap between what is taught in schools and the realities of the business world, where the focus is too often solely on profit—regardless of the cost. That is why a healthy mindset and respect for our planet are essential if we are to maintain balance in the world.

What was the defining moment that set you on the path of textile recycling?

The defining moment came during the pandemic, when I suddenly had more time to reflect on whether it was time for a shift in how I worked within the textile industry. That was when the idea of a sorting facility took shape—a solution that could ensure far more discarded textiles were recycled and transformed into new products.

How would you describe NewRetex’s philosophy on recycling—what works, and what doesn’t?

NewRetex’s sorting technology is built on a combination of sensors, artificial intelligence, robotics, and full data collection, which creates traceability throughout the entire process. What we have learned is that the more precisely textiles are sorted, the greater the opportunities to recycle them back into new textiles again. Precision is therefore one of our core focus areas.

NewRetex’s sorting technology is built on a combination of sensors, artificial intelligence, robotics, and full data collection, which creates traceability throughout the entire process. What we have learned is that the more precisely textiles are sorted, the greater the opportunities to recycle them back into new textiles again. Precision is therefore one of our core focus areas.

We also began developing different output streams together with spinners across Europe. This taught us a great deal about what was required from our sorting process to meet both market needs and production requirements. As a result, partnerships have always been central to NewRetex’s philosophy—whether with collaborators, customers, or even competitors. For us, partnerships, openness, and transparency in data are essential, so that together we can learn more and build something bigger.

Why do you believe traceability is essential for proving the sustainability of recycled fibers, especially new ones derived from textile waste?

Traceability is absolutely essential to documenting what is really happening. For too long, there has been little to no transparency in the textile industry and the waste sector, which we are also part of. It is time to open our eyes to what actually happens—only then can we improve.

In addition, companies are facing increasing data requirements due to upcoming EU regulations. These demand detailed reporting across different parameters, which in turn requires a robust foundation of traceable data. Traceability ensures that recycled fibers are not only sustainable in intention, but also credible in practice.

What role do you see collaboration—with brands, technology providers, and regulators—playing in scaling recycling solutions?

Partnerships are absolutely crucial in the transformation of the textile industry. This is a completely new market that has to be built from the ground up. Existing technologies need to work together, but in new ways and with new materials. We must create solutions through collaboration.

The opportunities are significant, but they require large investments—not only financial, but also in terms of time and commitment from companies. Only then can we succeed at scale, and make recycling both impactful and economically viable.

Why did you choose to establish NewRetex in Denmark, and what makes it a strong place to build a recycling business?

I chose to establish NewRetex in Denmark because this is where I live, where I am raising my three children, and where I already had the network needed to start a company. In addition, Denmark was one of the first countries in the EU to introduce separate collection of textile waste, which officially began on July 1, 2023. Looking ahead, I believe there is potential for strong Nordic collaboration within textile sorting and recycling.

From the beginning, our focus has been on developing an international solution with our sorting technology. Today, that means we are not only a company that collects textile waste in Denmark, sorts it, and sells recycled fibers. We also have an exciting business in selling our sorting technology globally. And thanks to our traceability system, which aligns directly with upcoming EU data requirements, we hold a very strong position in the market—all while maintaining our base in Denmark.

Looking ahead, what excites you most about the future of textile recycling, and what impact do you hope to make in the next five years?

NewRetex’s sorting technology is currently among the most advanced on the market, and that comes with responsibility. Our focus is to become the market leader—right now with a strong emphasis on the EU. Within the next six years, our goal is to have sold 300 sorting lines across Europe and beyond. It may sound ambitious, but the need for textile sorting is even greater.

I can already see a shift happening in the market: there is now real demand for sorted, recycled fibers, and the interest in sorting technology is growing rapidly. We expect to close several new agreements this year alone. Beyond becoming a market leader in sorting facilities, I believe NewRetex—through our experience and the data we collect—can help shape and accelerate the circular transition of the textile industry in the right direction.

Looking ahead, what excites you most about the future of textile recycling, and what impact do you hope to make in the next five years?

NewRetex’s sorting technology is currently among the most advanced on the market, and that comes with responsibility. Our focus is to become the market leader—right now with a strong emphasis on the EU. Within the next six years, our goal is to have sold 300 sorting lines across Europe and beyond. It may sound ambitious, but the need for textile sorting is even greater.

I can already see a shift happening in the market: there is now real demand for sorted, recycled fibers, and the interest in sorting technology is growing rapidly. We expect to close several new agreements this year alone. Beyond becoming a market leader in sorting facilities, I believe NewRetex—through our experience and the data we collect—can help shape and accelerate the circular transition of the textile industry in the right direction.